Riding Gear

My motorcycle riding gear:
- My boots, Icon Motorhead Stealth (200506), Icon Field Armor (200807)
- My jackets, Joe Rocket Ballistic 3.0 (2003), Joe Rocket Phoenix 3.0 (200506), First Gear Fuel (2006), 46 PowerTrip Leather (200706), XL Teknic Legend Perforated Leather (200811), FirstGear Rush Mesh Jacket (XL) $59 from NewEnough.com in 201007, No-Brand Leather/Mesh from vendor at show (201101)
- My pants, Joe Rocket Phoenix (2005?), Draggin Jeans "Draggin Liners" (2007), Shift Havoc Leather/Textile Pants (200807), FirstGear HT Air 2.0 Overpants - Black, Size 38, $129.00 from NewEnough.com in 200907, FirstGear Sport Tour Leather Overpants - Black, Size 40, $165.00 from NewEnough.com in 201007
- My gloves, 2X Alpinestars SMX-5 (2003), 2x Joe Rocket Meteor (200507), 2x Joe Rocket Velocity (200510), Joe Rocket Rush, 2X Olympia GT4100 Weather King II (200708), 2x Teknic Chicane Short glove (200808), XL Teknic Supervent Glove (200809), 2X PowerTrip PowerMonger Glove (200809)
- My helmets, XL HJC AC-11, $180.00 at Recreational Leisure in 200307, and a XXL AC-12 Yikes III Helmet, $99 from NewEnough.com in 200803, and a XXL CL-SP Barbwire Helmet, $39.99 from NewEnough.com in 201004
- FogCity ProShield helmet visor inserts. I've had one in my AC-11 clear visor since 2004... it really works! But I only like to use it when I must (spring and fall mornings)...

Maint./Replacement Stuff for the 400

The 750-related contents of this page are *slowly* being migrated to kz750twins.com... The 400-related stuff (and some Misc. stuff) will remain here.....




My new coils: the Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils DC1-1 on the 750 with the Newtronic ignition, and the Dyna Dual Output 5.0 Ohm Coils DC8-1 on the other 750 and 400s with the stock points.

The carb kits I bought (but have yet to use) for my '75/'76 KZ400, from Sirius Consolidated, Inc., Part #KK-0139. To be honest, they are not a perfect fit for the carbs. PLEASE see kz400.com (and the Kawasaki Twin Owners Forum) and Ivar's wonderful write-up of his experience with these kits!

The inline fuel filters that I use and replace every year. You can find 'em at any bike shop, I usually just order some with whatever I'm already ordering when I'm ordering something else...

I won't bleed my brakes without Russel SpeedBleeders, which I got from Seven Saturdays. Free shipping, and a great price (like $7 or something if memory serves)! Thread size is 7mm x 1.0, total length is 34mm, Russel part# 639570.... UPDATE: SevenSaturdays is sold out of them, so I recently bought them at Jegs.com, still 2 in a package, for $11.99 + $6.99 shipping.

My tires, Dunlop D404 on most of my bikes, and the Dunlop K627(110/90-18)/F11(3.00-18) combo on the 400 rebuild -- affordable, dependable. I get 'em soopercheap at RonAyers.com, installed by (and tubes and strips by) Howell Cycle. In 2009, I got Pirelli MT-66 "Route" tires for my 750 from Motorcyclesuperstore.com; best price with shipping I could find.

For my '75/'76 Kawasaki KZ400 Twin front brake line replacement, here's my shopping list from z1Enterprises.com (note that the line totals with my superbike bars could have been an inch or so shorter comfortably):
- 2 Brake Hose 10MM 35 DEG BANJO FITTING TU03-6053 ( $9.59 )
- 1 Brake Hose Stainless Steel 9" Clear Coated TU03-6109 ( $14.51 )
- 1 Brake Hose 10MM STRAIGHT BANJO FITTING TU03-6051 ( $8.57 )
- 1 Brake Hose Stainless Steel 11" Clear Coated TU03-6110 ( $15.29 )
- 1 Brake Fitting Adapter - Female 10mm x 1.25 to Male JIC-3 TUFM10125-03 ( $6.08 )
- 10 Brake Hose 3/8" CRUSH WASHERS (10-Pk) TU03-6066 ( $2.84 )
.... Total = $66.47

For the 750, I got a nice front wheel bearing set (part# 25-1221) from All Balls Racing. I liked it so much I ordered the rear set (part# 25-1286). Note that the rear is more complex to install, and for pete's sake, pay attention to which side all the parts go in! Don't ask why... ;) UPDATE: It looks like you can't buy them directly online from them anymore; you have to do a search and buy from local dealer.... sucky... UPDATE AGAIN: Ok, I got some front bearings (individually) for the 400 from z1enterprises.com. Allballs apparently does not make a kit for the 400 front anymore, and I could buy both bearings and two of the 3 seals (looks like one is rare now).

I buy my ReCoil Thread Repair Kits (and replacment inserts) from Maryland Metrics. I took a generic brand replacement (instead of "ReCoil" brand) once... *once*... I gotta remember to insist on ReCoil brand only next time... Although I see that off-brands are available at local auto parts stores...

I found the holy grail of fuseboxes: Part #: AF-CFB4; Desc:4 Circuit ATO/ATC Fuse Block from WiringProducts.com. I installed it on the 400 rebuild, and both of the 750s, and it is nice...

Lately I've been interested in a cheapo method of muffler replacements. I get a set of Emgo Muffler Reducers (Part# 449976) from DennisKirk.com, then - for the 750s only (the 400 don't need angled angled adaptors) - a pair of angled adaptors from a guy on eBay (nortonbsa@att.net), then a set of cheap stock Sportster mufflers off eBay. So far, so good. Watch out for dudes that have punched out the center of the Sporty mufflers though!

In order to do the "coilmod" or coil power relay mod, you need the 12VDC BOSCH RELAY SPDT 30A (WARNING: This relay has a 87a pin, which you DO NOT use), the 12VDC 5-PIN RELAY SOCKET, and an In-line 10 amp ATO/ATC Fuseholder (or, optionally, use the spare fuse in the fuse box mentioned above). If you use these items, then this pin-out will work:
blue = 30 = Fused power line to starter solenoid
red = 87a = DO NOT USE
yellow = 87 = DIRECT connection to coil
white = 86 = Trigger input to relay (connect to yellow/red wire)
black = 85 = Ground to frame


For sprockets and chains:
- For the 750s: I buy chains (530 Chain - RK 106 link 'X' Ring) and rear sprockets (JT 38t) from z1Enterprises.com. I buy front sprockets (SunStar 17t) from DennisKirk.com, since the sprocket (17t JT with 13t spline) they offer on z1Enterprises.com does not have the little hole for the lock-washer (it is more like Honda-style with the two-holes).
- For the 400s: I buy chains (530 Chain - RK 100 link 'X' Ring) and rear sprockets (JT 45t) from z1Enterprises.com. The front sprocket is a bit more complicated... Historically, I have always bought my front sprockets (15t SunStar) from DennisKirk.com because the sprocket (15t JT with 6t spline) they offer on z1Enterprises.com does not have the little hole for the lock-washer (it is more like Honda-style with the two-holes).
- Recently however, I wanted to go to a more rpm-friendly gearing on one of my 400s, so I bought from z1Enterprises.com a SunStar 16t (with the correct lock-washer hole), and they had a custom-made 44-tooth rear sprocket for me (for an additional fee)... and it is awesome, but is about as far from standard as I think I should go... I might do 16/45 just as a compromise...

Aftermarket Accessories

My L.E.D. Battery Gauge by Kuryakyn from Custom Dynamics. Unfortunately, the most important two LEDs (green ones) burned out after about a year. It was good while it lasted, but now is kinda' useless....

My Spot Clock by Formotion. Now I know how late for work I am while riding. Got the first one at full price (like $25 or so) in '05, bought two more on sale ($15 each) in early '09...

Here are the license plate rings I currently use: 750 #1, 750 #2, not used yet, 400 rebuild

My LED Tag Screws, again from Custom Dynamics - I have four of them around my license plate on one of my 750s, wired to my turn signals. Neat.

Bead seats for motorcycles? Believe it. I use a 12x13 BeadRider.com model on my 750 and LOVE IT (although if I did it again, I'd try for 14 or 15 long)! I ordered it from Sampson before I knew I could get them direct, but hey...

I just bought this trunk from JC Whitney for like $60 in '06 (now it's like $80!), and it has come in very handy so far...

I bought a Thermotec "Cool It" Fiberglass Exhaust Wrap kit on eBay from Shamrock Performance, from Brookfield IL. The kit included one pack of 1" x 50' (part # 11021) black wrap, a can of high-temp paint, and stainless straps. I might recommend *two* cans of paint, since you want to paint the header before and after you wrap it (yes, paint the wrap). The 50 foot length was just enough for me to cover my stock headers on the 750, but not the cross-over (didn't want to anyway). One final note... since you must wet and stretch the wrap as you apply it, it becomes one of the messiest things you may ever do... you get little wet black flakes all over you and everything around you... ;)

I never go anywhere without a small set of tools for any tweak that might have to happen out on the road. I got the "CRUZ TOOLS ECONOKIT METRIC M1" (200606), with only a couple special things thrown in (relay, fuses, etc). Nice kit, nice pouch. Since I have multiple bikes, I got a Joe Rocket Manta tank bag (200704) to carry the tools, and easily switch between bikes for each ride.

I bought an old-stock Morgan Colortune off eBay (200708) to see if it could help me zero in on my pilot screw adjustments, espeially on carbs that I was unfamiliar with. It really does work, and I've used it quite a few times now, but I have learned a valuable lesson in hindsight; The reason I needed the colortune in the first place was that my pilots were still dirty, no matter how much I had cleaned them, and could not be properly adjusted without compensating for the crud. The Colortune helped me tune them with that compensation. But, once I started using Seafoam and getting my carbs clean, I found that I really didn't need the Colortune, since stock stock adjustments and methods now would work as designed. You live and learn.

When I ride in cold temps, around 32F degrees, my hands get pretty cold in my hour-long commute to the office. So, I got a set of Oxford Hot Hands Heated Wrap-Over Grips to make it more tolerable. They were pretty easy to install (you must remove tank to run the wire). Though the wiring becomes mighty brittle in the REAL cold, it worked well overall, and I was really glad when it was still there in the spring! You have to keep the switch close to your (left) hand, and I found myself switching it on and off alot... the sucker gets *real* hot... One tip: In order to keep the bulkiness down to a minimum, I was able to remove the foam on my aftermarket grips so the Hot Hands wrap would fit tighter on the grip. Otherwise, it might be just a bit too much...